Climb Newcastle News: Spring Boulder Open: Full Results
Two days on from Friday night's Spring Boulder Open and we are just recovering from an epic day of competition climbing.
Running on the same format as the Winter Bouldering Series, competitors had 35 problems across all the grades to try. For a change it was our yellow holds that made an appearance for the competition set, rather than the usual green, and these seemed to make for a varied circuit with some crux problems where you wouldn't expect them!
By 8:30pm the scorecards were in, and while Andy frantically reset final problems in the pool area, the finalists were announced. In the men's event Irishman Nigel Callender was looking a little nervous but out in front, closely followed by Mark Glennie, 15 year old Jamie Naden and lunchtime regular Rich Gill. Young Dan Walton took great advantage of the 1pt rule (for more than 3 goes) to catch up with Rich and force a five person final. In the female category it was Karin Magog out in front, with 2 juniors Kate Watson and Beth Walton just behind, Helen Senior in 4th and thanks to Dan's extension of the final format, Rachel Hoyland made up the 5th of the finalists.
At 9pm the finalists entered the arena to view their 3 problems...the format was this: 4 minutes to view them all, and then the competitors would be brought out one by one with a maximum 4 minutes to try each problem.
And so began a sensational final. In the girls Rachel was unlucky not to get the final move of problem 1, with Helen and Kate completing after some falls, Bethany and Karin led the way flashing the 1st. Problem 2 was an awkward one utilizing the largest of the new green volumes with a technical move rocking on to the volume at the top. All of the girls were close but it was Karin flashing again and Bethany who topped it to set up a tense finale. Once again the 3rd and final remained unclimbed until 14 year old Bethany came out, crossing the lip of the roof to the red volume and cranking the big move to finish, Bethany had flashed it. The pressure was on Karin, she needed to do the problem to win, as simple as that. Not the tallest of competitors, Karin cruised through the roof section but came up short on the big last move, desperately trying to mono the bolt hole for extra height. Second go though there was no mistake, rolling elegantly on her heel, Karin latched the finish to take 1st on the night. A fantastic effort from young Bethany who took 2nd and Helen 3rd.
The men were in for a torrid time from the start in their final. Over on the left of the pool there was no easing them in to the final, a double dyno for 2 pinches in the middle of the 45 degree board was followed by an equally powerful move for the finish. The youngsters Dan and Jamie were finding the jump tough, as was Rich who was not well suited in height! 4th out Mark latched the jump 3rd go to the delight of the crowd, just missing out on the last move. Nigel didn't let his short stature get in the way either, reaching the pinches 4th go and unlucky not to hold the top with 3 fingers on the finishing jug. Problem 2 on the 30 degree board was much more up Rich's street, getting through the weird start 5th go and finishing in style. Only Nigel could match and with a 2nd go ascent assured victory before the madness of problem 3.
Men's Problem 3 was the ultimate comp problem, a problem with everything...a tough roof section was followed by some swinging about, leading to a full on mantle of a flat volume. Once stood up the 'gap of doom' awaited, a committing fall onto the sidewall that could easily have led to boken noses! And if that wasn't enough there was campussing across 2 volumes and a big finishing move to contend with! Dan, Rich, Jamie and Mark struggled to get out of the roof, leaving only Nigel. Powering out of the roof Nigel stood on the volume with the fear of death in his eyes, only surpassed by that on the routesetters faces...we knew from cunningly measuring his reach earlier that he would span it, but now that he was stood on the volume the Irishman looked tiny in comparison to the gap he was about to across. We could barely look but somehow he held it, the crowd went wild but Nigel couldn't hold the swing. 1 minute 30 left and there was no time to pause, straight back on Nigel was quickly stood once again on the volume. He chalked then threw his chalk bag to the ground, it was now or never...This time Nigel held the swing and with a screaming crowd behind him, campussed through to glory and an eruption of noise. Rich was very hapopy to take 2nd and Mark 3rd.
As usual we gave away hundreds of pounds of raffle prizes, a just reward for the fantastic performance of the crowd!
A great day!
|1||Karin Magog||Senior||288||Top 3/4 Bonus 3/3|
|2||Beth Walton||Junior||248||Top 3/5 Bonus 3/4|
|3||Helen Senior||Senior||240||Top 1/2 Bonus 3/4|
|4||Kate Watson||Junior||258||Top 1/3 Bonus 3/5|
|5||Rachel Hoyland||Senior||228||Top 0/0 Bonus 3/3|
|1||Nigel Callender||Senior||330||Top 2/8 Bonus 3/8|
|2||Rich Gill||Senior||308||Top 1/5 Bonus 1/5|
|3||Mark Glennie||Senior||320||Top 0/0 Bonus 1/3|
|4||Jamie Naden||Junior||310||Top 0/0 Bonus 0/0|
|5||Dan Walton||Senior||308||Top 0/0 Bonus 0/0|
|41||A Rorg (?)||Vet||121|